Posturing in Korea

North and South Korean troops at Panmunjeom JSA

North and South Korean troops face off at Panmunjom Joint Security Area

My last post began with a reference to old vets returning to Korea to remember the past. More than 50 years later, it appears niether side in this conflict has laid down their sword.

Coming from Canada, the one thing that amazed me was the militarization of South Korea. The highway north from Seoul was lined with guard towers, barbed-wire fencing, anti-tank blockades, and signs noting landmines – with increasing frequency the closer you got to the border. I wasn’t surprised by this given the tension between the two sides, but it was uncomfortable.

This was another period of escalation between the North and the South. Apparently there’s a resort along the border where Korean families separated by the war could meet. Only a day or two before we went to visit the demilitarized zone, a South Korean woman at this resort wandered off and was shot by North Korean guards. Because of this incident, an American military officer told me we were heading to the border at a time of increased tension.

The Panmunjeon Joint Security Area is one of the only places along the border where both sides can meet for negotiations. When politicians travel to South Korea, they often come here for pictures (such as our own prime minister). And why not? It’s such a strange and surreal place.

In this middle of this highly-militarized area is an open square with four blue houses. This opening is clearly divided along the centre with a line that marks the actual border between North and South. On both sides of the border are soldiers. The South Koreans, standing at strict attention with fists clenched in tae-kwon-do style poses. The North Koreans, likewise rigid, standing straight in their drab brown uniforms. Both sides are unarmed, but the American officer told me they had a fully-armed quick reaction force that could be at the area within 90 seconds. He suspected the North had a similar capability should the need arise.

And it has. There have been incidents in the past where North Korean nationals tried running across the border at Panmunjeom sparking a shoot-out on both sides. Another such incident occurred not too far from this location when North Korean soldiers killed a U.S. serviceman who was involved in trimming a tree that blocked a UN watchtower.

Panmunjeom is more spectacle than anything however. As soon as we came, the North Korean soldiers began marching along their side, giving threatening glances and staring at our group. The South Korean soldiers responded with their equally tough poses (complete with sunglasses for added effect). The American officers with us, who jointly provide security (there was a Canadian colonel as well, you can read my story here), warned us to be on our best behaviour at the border zone as the North Koreans have been know to re-broadcast images in their propaganda of tourists from the South who were acting in a provocative fashion.

Adding to the scene, tourists gaze from both sides of the border. Canadians on our side and Chinese on the other (I do not know if North or South Korean citizens are actually allowed to visit this border zone given past events – especially in the North).

Should you ever go to South Korea do not miss the opportunity to go to the demilitarized zone. I believe the U.S. Army runs tours, but who knows what’s happening now given recent hostilities.

As fascinating as this place may be, one does hope that its need will eventually be extinguished. But given recent flare-ups, I do not see this happening any time soon.


Korean War veterans at the Korean War Museum

Korean War veterans search for the names of fallen comrades.

I was sitting on the floor of the Korean War Museum when this picture was taken. We were in a long hall with plaques lining the walls on both sides. Behind me was the tablet that listed the names of the 516 Canadian soldiers killed in the Korean War.

I had travelled to South Korea with a contingent of veterans to revisit the battlefields they fought in more than half a century ago. For many of these vets, it was their first time back to this country and they were eager to see the rebuilt Korea while paying homage to the fallen.

The old soldiers pictured above were scanning the plaque to find the names of their comrades who were killed in this war – and it was a WAR as any Korean vet will tell you. Our South Korean hosts were extremely courteous to the vets who were quite proud to see that their sacrifice was honoured.

I have never been in the military, but I covered Canadian soldiers and veterans for more than three years. In this time, I have developed a new perspective for Remembrance Day. Firstly, it is a day to honour those who served their country – soldiers, sailors, airmen, and all who supplied the logistics to keep them marching, sailing, or flying. They did what their country asked them to do and many lost their lives, limbs, and minds doing so.

So wear your poppy, mark a moment’s silence, and show a little respect for our military.

However, for those of us who have never donned a uniform, this seems a half-hearted attempt at remembrance. Of course, the soldiers should be honoured for doing what soldiers do: follow orders. Said Tennyson in his famous poem “The Charge of the Light Brigade”:

Theirs not to make reply,
Theirs not to reason why,
Theirs but to do and die.

But where do these orders come from? The chain of command extends to the generals who receive their direction from their political masters who receive their mandate from the ballot box. Yes, it is important to honour, but it is also important to remember the responsibility we all hold in this equation. Should our soldiers be in Afghanistan? Should this mission be extended in some fashion? What is the cost in blood and treasure? Are we actually making a difference in this country or simply prolonging a civil war?

As in any conflict, there are many issues that need to be understood. Are we actually showing reverence to our current soldiers and those who served before them by relying on simple slogans to justify sending them to battle?

Our soldiers have done and will do their part. If we really want to treat them with respect, we must do ours.

Innocent eyes

Seoul Street

Seoul, South Korea

Modern, vibrant, bustling, exciting. These were some of the words that came to mind as I walked through the city of Seoul, South Korea about two years ago. It was my first day in the city and I quickly filled my camera memory up with a jubilance that only comes from the novelty of a new place. I had never been to a city like it in my life and for my brief introduction to Asia, it was quite fascinating.

About two days after this initial jaunt in the city, I stood in a ballroom at the 22nd floor of the Seoul Plaza Hotel in the centre of the downtown. I had travelled to Korea as a journalist and was attending a banquet dinner honouring Canada’s veterans of the Korean War. Windows from the floor to the ceiling lined the room and an amazing panoramic of the city could be seen.

Finishing my meal, I walked over to a window and started chatting with William MacIver of Stittsville, Ontario. MacIver served as an infantry platoon commander as UN forces patrolled the border to ensure the North Koreans followed the terms of the armistice agreement.

As we looked out at the city of skyscrapers, endless traffic and bright billboards, MacIver said that after 55 years he now thinks the people look healthier and more confident.

“When I was here there was one restaurant in Seoul and it was in a hotel and you had to be a general to use the restaurant,” he said. “…[The Korean people] weren’t that sure of themselves at that point in time, but now they’ve got the confidence. You can see the way the economy is building and where it’s going.”

For many of the Korean vets attending this trip the most overwhelming part was simply looking at the dynamic country that South Korea has become. During the war many of the veterans took a 22-sea sick day journey aboard an American troop ship to land in the city of Pusan (now Busan), which was loaded with refugees and suffering from abject poverty. In Seoul, the city had been the site of several battles as both sides marched over the devastated South Korean capital. Much of the countryside carried similar scars especially along the 38th parallel, where the majority of the war was fought. The development and beauty of South Korea was a theme that was discussed repeatedly by these old soldiers who could only remember a country wearing the damages of war.

This was something I could not see. Only vibrant, modern, and exciting.



The idea behind this post came from a photo gallery I found through Twitter. In it, Russian photographer Sergey Larenkov combined European cityscapes with photos from World War II to make the past come to life. It really is quite amazing. You can check it out by clicking here.